First surf session this season

Ouch! That's all I have to say the moment I started to feel the muscles in my back, shoulders and arm start to ache after just 20 minutes of paddling. I was so pissed because I couldn't keep paddling towards the pocket. Mind you the current was pretty strong. If it was mid season, I'm pretty sure I wouldn't even think about it. But after spending almost a year out of the surf, it's not surprising. Damn we Malaysian surfers have got it hard. Imagine this, for the average joe (being someone who needs to work) who only surfs the weekend, it takes us awhile to strengthen ourselves for the tough conditions. Furthermore, our monsoon only lasts for about 3 months. So we basically always take two step forwards and one step back. It sucks. I've seen dudes (usually foreigners and luckier locals who need not work) who haven't surfed after a year and still rip. I put it down to them having conditioned themselves for years that being away from the surf for a long time doesn't really effect their abilities. I envy them.

So what do us average Malaysian surfers do? We travel. Well, I seriously doubt that spending 2 weeks in Bali really helps condition us, but hell, it certainly gets rid of our itch :)

You must be asking yourself, why on earth do I continue surfing? Well, looking at it objectively, I would ask the same thing. But not all things in life can be viewed objectively. I honestly can not explain why I keep doing it. it could be the adrenalin rush of charging a big (by Malaysian standards lar) wave, the joy of experiencing all that with a couple of buddies, the stoke that you get from getting an awesome ride....I don't know. I guess the best way to find out is to try it out yourself.

I honestly hope that someday I will find a way to surf more and work less (while still taking good care of my family of course). But till that day, this is the life that chose me and i'll live with it.

Peace